To you boat owners
Posted 07 June 2011 - 08:00 AM
Posted 31 August 2011 - 05:41 PM
I know right!...I got a 18' bass tracker and have no need for this 46lb thrust.
Are you off loading again? Didn't you just buy that thing?
st trolling motor
I'm keeping the 55 and selling this one.
Posted 05 October 2011 - 01:37 PM
If interested,I have his contact ##
Posted 19 October 2011 - 12:57 PM
Thanks Matt,I kind of figured you would come off like this,Every link i click on to want's to sell me something,I'm waiting for a boat"OWNER" that has done it many times before to chime in.
Step one: turn on computer.
Step two: connect to internet.
Step three: www.google.com
Step four: figure it out yo self.
Posted 19 October 2011 - 01:35 PM
Posted 19 October 2011 - 01:40 PM
Use a flushing attachment, or run the outboard in a tank filled with clean water.
Empty fuel lines and carburetors
While the engine is still running, disconnect the fuel line from the engine. When the engine dies, the fuel delivery components will be empty, preventing gums from forming in the stagnant gasoline and clogging lines and jets or injectors.
Fog the carburetor intake(s)
Before the engine runs out of fuel, spray fogging oil into the carburetor(s). Fogging oil is an anticorrosive that will protect the internal surfaces of the carburetor and the cylinders. Typically the engine will run rough just before it runs out of fuel. As that happens, give the carburetor(s) a heavier shot of fogging oil to make sure internal surfaces are fully coated.
Drain cooling passages
Disconnect the flush attachment or remove the motor from the flush tank. With the motor upright, let all water drain out of the pick-up. Open drain plugs (if any--see your owner's manual) to empty the powerhead and intermediate housing. Crank the motor a couple of times by hand or "bump" it with the starter to empty the water pump. If the motor will be exposed to freezing conditions, it is essential that no water remains inside.
Fog the cylinders
Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into the holes to coat the interior surfaces of the cylinders. Rotate the flywheel a few turns to spread the oil on the cylinder walls. While the plugs are out is the time to check them and regap or replace as required. Reinstall the spark plugs.
Lubricate linkages and the electric starter drive mechanism
Clean all pivots and visible gears and protect them for the winter with oil or grease, as specified in your owner's manual.
Drain and refill gearcase
Use lubricant specified in your owner's manual. Fill oil tank
This will prevent condensation from forming inside the tank.
Touch up damaged paint
Mist-coat powerhead with an anticorrosion spray
Drain fuel tank and supply lines
Starting your engine in the spring with old gasoline is an invitation to problems. Manage the last few weeks of your boating season to leave your fuel tank(s) close to empty, then drain the fuel that remains. Use it in your snow blower or burn it in your car, but leave gasoline tanks and lines empty.
Stabilize the fuel
Some boaters prefer to store the tanks full to minimize the potential for condensation. I find a cupful of water in the tank in the spring a lot smaller problem than 50 gallons of bad gasoline, but if you want to leave the tank full, pour in an appropriate amount of gasoline stabilizer to combat the formation of passage-clogging gums.
Clean and liberally lubricate propeller shaft
The off season is the perfect time to have your prop(s) serviced. If the engine will be stored on the boat, take the prop(s) home to discourage theft.
Laying the engine down risks water draining where it shouldn't. An engine stand is easy enough to cobble together.
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